Distance: 52.4 miles
Avg speed: 8.3 mph
Max speed: 26.9 mph
Ascent: 4844 ft
Saddle time: 06:17

Beautiful Sunny Morning

I had set my alarm for 6:00AM so that I could get an early start on the day. Unfortunately, I tossed and turned all night likely due to nerves about tomorrow’s ride. So, at 5:00AM I reset my alarm for 6:30AM in hopes I actually get some real sleep. Sadly, that didn’t really happen. So, I did get up at 6:30AM and broke down camp.

While suiting up I thought I’d show off my MTB shoe covers as they have been invaluable in keeping my shoes dry and also keeping my feet warm. Mind you, the MTB boots I have are Gore Tex and fully water proof. However, water can still get into the top where the ankle is and also where the laces are. I know this first hand from riding home from the office in a down pour. When I reached home my feet were swimming in water. I literally had to dump the water from the boot into the sink! So, I decided right then that a MTB rain cover was probably a good investment. Relieved I bought them as they sure have saved my feet in this unpredictable Alaskan weather…

As I was eating breakfast I happen to look up and there was Denali revealing herself once again! I’m so lucky! Perhaps this is a sign of good things to come on this crazy climb filled day!

Eielson Visitor Center

The main goal of the morning was to climb the 2000ft and knock off 20 miles in the process to the Eielson Visitor center where I would eat lunch. The morning ride felt really good and I was making great time with the steady rise in elevation. I was within 2 miles of the visitor center when I see a red fox sitting in the middle of the road roughly 50 yards ahead. As I continued the fox would also continue down the road stopping whenever I stopped to take photos. This went on for about a mile. Eventually he must have gotten board or knew the visitor center was in close proximity because he darted of into the bush never to be seen again. I’m gonna miss having that cute little guy keep me company!

I reached the visitor center which sits on a ridge. There was overcast and a real nasty wind chill. I grab some supplies and headed into the warmth of the building. I made camp on a wooden bench near the entrance, plugged in my devices for charging and began eating peanut butter and a bagel.

The place is a popular destination for the tour buses and can get quite crowded when a new bus enters. It looks like they only show so many buses at a time because when I rolled in I could see standing buses waiting their turn.

Off to my right is the rangers desk where people can schedule hikes or ask general questions. They are super polite which might be tough as person after person seem to all ask similar questions. Will I be able to do the 1200ft hike? The rangers always replied with something like ‘you can always turn around and head back if your feeling tired but ultimately it is up to you as I do not know your capability.’. I’m sure the ranger wants to roll her eyes and say ‘look lady, clearly you’ve never done this before so maybe you stick to the easier hike?’. Or, maybe I’m just thinking that… 🙂

After thawing out my frozen hands and finishing my lunch I parted ways with Eielson.  I know I have 5 passes to get over so I need to get the legs warmed up!

Thorofare pass

When you leave Eielson heading outbound you have to immediately begin the climb to Thorofare Pass. My body was feeling good after the pitstop so kept my head down and grinded away. I was so busy tearing up the road that I must of cruised right passed the Thorofare Pass sign so no photo.

.. Damn it! As you can imagine I didn’t feel like riding back up hill to take one 🙂

Stoney Pass

After the nice downhill glide from Thorofare you enter a valley and then begin the Stoney Pass switchbacks. These ranged from 4 to 8 percent grades which take some effort. As I was climbing the sun came out and raised the temperature. I took off the showerpass rain coat and basked in the sun for the remainder of the climb. The smart wool needed drying from wy sweat so this really helped! This time I made sure to remember to snap a photo.

Highway Pass

Stoney pass has the same type of switchbacks on the other side but cruising down these requires a lot of braking as you need to make turns in or to switch back. On one of the turns I caught a little gravel but managed to keep the bike upright. You’ve always got to have your A game when out here. There is no forgiveness for those who’s minds drift from the task in front of you.

Once I reached the valley and began the long and tedious climb an on coming bus stopped and flagged me over to talk. She said that there were two grizzlies up the road about a mile and that I should be very careful as they are getting close to the road. She recommended that once I get near that I wait for a bus to shadow me through. If the bear comes down to the road or charges do not ride my bike but put the bike between me and the bear. Riding could trigger the bears presator instinct to chase. First a sense of exhilaration…but that was short lived as a sense of terror overcame me. The bus drove off and I was all alone.

As I approached the area I could see a tour bus stopped about one half mile ahead of me. That must be where the bears are I thought. However, I glanced to my right and in a meadow down below I encountered my first grizzly! It is difficult to see in the photos but if zoom in you can make out the brown furry guy eating berries. He was probably a quarter mile or so away which is far beyond the recommended 300 yards.

I continued up towards the stop bus and as I got closer he pulled up to tell me to wait for the next bus going in my direction as the bear was just off the road. Just then a bus was approaching and he said he would tell that driver. So, I waited and I could see the bus driver telling the other driver in my rear view. I looked off to my left and could see the grizzly bear on the up hill slope eating berries just 50 yards from me and the road. He was probably at a 20 degree and from me. I felt tiny as this guy was enormous!

I started riding very slowly expecting the bus to shadow me but he instead pulls right by me and stops perpendicular to the bear (50 ft ahead maybe). I was shocked and a bit pissed. This bear has turned a few times to check me out so he knows I’m there. He could easily run down the hill before I pedal to the bus. So, I proceeded with caution. As I got to the front of the bus the bus driver didn’t even notice me as he, like his passengers, were all taking photos of the bear! Basically I was alone out here. I slowly continued on and managed to snap a pic of the bears behind. I wanted one of his side but he only turned to look at me and assess whether I was a threat so naturally I wasn’t thinking ‘gee maybe I should put down the bear spray and take a photo’. After all the excitement I continued on to live another day.

Looking back it was quite an awesome experience. To be so close to an apex predator knowing I was could be prey was humbling. Had the bus not told me I could have easily rode up and startled the bear without noticing and things could have ended badly for me.

Polychrome Pass

The clouds were rolling in as I began the downhill towards the start of Polychrome Pass. They opened up with a mix of rain and sleet. The sleet doesn’t feel so nice hitting your face as 20+ MPH! Up ahead I say two more cyclists! I needed to catch up and say hello!

The three (not two) were each riding 29er bikes and the man had their child strapped into a baby seat eating a sucker. The couple are from England where they sold everything, came to Canada and bought an RV. I hear his more and more… They were doing a bike ride from the Eielson center bake to the Teklanika campground where their RV is parked. Clearly they were not prepared for the weather as he was wearing shorts with a cheap rain poncho and she was at least wearing tights and a heavier jacket. The child was absolutely loving it despite the frigid temps. As we were coasting down he even offered me his sucker! How adorable! They were probably going to flag down a bus as the weather was just to much for them.

After some more climbing I eventually reached the summit if Polychrome Pass. If you recall from my previous post this place was crawling with tour busses and people. Today, at least at this time, it was completely vacant except a lone cyclist wearing bike shorts and a CamelBak. He is originally from Texas but is now the camp host for Teklanika campground. He came here when he was 19 and immediately fell in love. Riding up to Polychrome to soak in the sights is his favorite thing to do. I continued on my way and said I’m sure I’ll see you again as you overtake me later.

Sable Pass

I let gravity take over on the downhill and as I started the uphill for Sable the sun came out. I was feeling like now would be an excellent time to stop and have a snack and maybe warm up in the sun. I knew this pass was going to take some effort so the calories will surely stoke the fire.

After my 15 minute break I continued on. A mile in I could see the cyclist from Polychrome in my rear view. He was slowly catching me which isn’t surprising since my loaded bike weighs a ton. I really wanted to try to fight him off as it took my mind off of the climb. However, my legs were getting tired and I needed some water so I stopped for a quick break. He caught me and said this pass is toughie but we’ll pull through and he continued on his way. I left shortly thereafter and kept him in my sights for as long as I could but he eventually pulled away on a short downhill never to be seen again. It was a much needed distract that made the climb go by quicker.

Igloo Creek Campground

I thoroughly enjoyed the lengthy downhill towards Igloo creek. As I approached the campground I could see a rather large crowd gathered at either side of the road. They weren’t your typical hiker crowd neither. They were all snapping photos and pointing. It was as if I had a welcoming crowd cheering me in as I’ve just conquered wonderlake back roads! I think I yelled something like ‘look at all the people!’. I didn’t really know what else to say as it totally took me by surprise.

I arrive to a nearly empty campground. 6 of 7 sites were available. I knew a bus would be arriving soon with the possibility of some additional campers. So, I went through each site to see which felt right to me. I could hear the bus coming so I ran back to my site from a few nights ago and took that one. I know it is lame but it just felt like home!

So I’m making lunch and a young couple walk into the common area. I say hello and the guy ignores me and the girl just kinda looked and continued on. I thought to myself ‘I bet they are French’. They began spending to each other in, you guess it, ‘French’. I almost never run into friendly French people. I guess that is why they are the brunt of most jokes. Conversation is just not in their vocabulary…. Unless you too are French. I’ve seen this happen multiple times where two random French people realize they in proximity to each other and they begin to talk. I’m guessing they are probably complaining about something because they never look happy…

So I’m still sitting in the common area (better than the tent) when the French return to make dinner. I kept to myself but wanted to see if they would put a table cloth or something nice to cover these dirty picnic stands. Okay, I’m being mean..

Moments later two women entered and I said hello. They smiled and actually replied! They were not French but rather American. They were like you are that biker guy? Then we exchanged routes and small talk. They were playing cards and having fun which most certainly annoyed the Frenchies at the next table. 🙂

Stomach felt fine after today’s ride and was already ready for dinner despite eating 1.5 hours ago. Who am I to tell my stomach no? I went ahead and slaved over a jet boil to prepare some Three Sisters Stew.

I wrapped up the night by taking a little stroll as the rain subsided. I figured I’d sleep in tomorrow since sanctuary campgrounds is only 12 miles away. Or maybe I should just press on to Riley Creek? I dunno. I’ll decide that tomorrow. Either way my legs earned a late morning departure…