Distance: 76.3 miles
Avg speed: 13.7 mph
Max speed: 27.0 mph
Ascent: 1950 ft
Saddle time: 05:35

I awoke multiple times throughout the night due to the periodic rains that were forecasted to come through the area. They weren’t super heavy but loud enough when hitting the rain fly to make me stir. I had the alarm set for sunrise (6:30AM) with the intention to be hitting the pavement by 8AM. But the rain could derail my plans.

I was quite fortunate as the rain subsided around 6:00AM so I took the opportunity to break camp for the last time. I’ve gotten really good at folding the wet rain fly while keeping it on the actual tent. This way it doesn’t pick up ground debris which makes it rough and dirty. I keep learning or discovering new ways to be more efficient with this 10 year old REI halfdome tent. It’s been a spectacular piece of gear which has never failed me, easy and quick to assemble and generous storage under the rain fly. REI has some good camping gear which won’t break the bank.

I ate a light breakfast in the laundry area, filled my empty water bottles with well water, gave shonu one last call and hit the road.

Today I was prepared for mid 50s temps with 70% chance of rain. I also new today would be filled rolling hills and some wind gusts from the East. My path starts south and then heads east for a good 35 miles so I will be taking the brunt of the wind today.

A few miles in the rain started. It wasn’t too heavy but the spray from passing vehicles make it messy. The vehicles were passing me much closer than I’d like . So much so that I actually considered using the adjacent bike path. The problem with those is that they roll more than the street and instead of following the road under bridges you’d have to climb to the top of the bridge, cross and then slope back down to road level. Way too much work IMO so I decided to stick with my treacherous travels.

The rollers and headwind were tough on the sore knees so I needed to make periodic put stops to give them a break. My first stop was at a gas station convenient store where I had a sweet tea and banana. I spent time inside to warm up too. Because my clothes were wet with sweat I knew going back outside would be painful. I considered removing the yellow rain coat but it provids much needed visibility to traffic making my ride a bit safer than my all black smart wool so I kept it on. Unfortunately, I will continue to sweat…

I really wanted to hit Wasilla next as I knew Sarah Palin would be welcoming me at the town’s border. 😁 However, I came up short by about 5 miles as the head winds and crazy tight shoulders were holding me back. So, I made another pit stop at yet another gas station. Here I sat in the attached Subway enjoying a Gatorade and muffin. I took my time and attempted to warm up my soaking gloves. Apparently my hands sweat more than anything else as these things are disgusting (I don’t believe I have hyperhidrosis). It pains me to have to slip the stinky wet bastards back onto my hands but it does offer much needed wind protection.

Speaking of wet my head do-rag is always soaked too. I always need to wring the thing out. In fairness some of this could be rain but I’m guessing it’s mostly sweat. The wet do-rag and glove combination is probably the worst part of taking a break…

I approached the Wasilla welcoming sign but didn’t see Sarah… Maybe she’s still working on that bridge to nowhere… Oh well. Time to push on.

I knew there was a burger king at the far end of Wasilla (about 5 miles) so I intend to break there for an Impossible Whopper lunch! I’ve had the impossible burger before but not the impossible Whopper so I’m pretty stoked!

I received my order and grabbed a seat. Another family entered and the sharply dressed guy also ordered the impossible Whopper. I was kind of shocked because I had it in my mind that a plant based diet would be considered wimpy by Alaskan standards. I guess not but then again this guy didn’t look like your typical rugged Alaskan. He looked more like a white collar dude so I suppose those exist here as well. Either way I’m happy to see restaurants embracing it (if there is money to be made they will embrace) and the great white collar people of Alaska supporting it!

I overheard the family’s conversation and he asked his spouse if she could tell the difference and she replied emphatically with ‘yeah’. I thought to myself that she is a total liar. I’ve eaten beef whoppers before and the plant one tastes the same. I wanted to perform a blind taste test but figured that would take this too far so decided not to. 🙂

All fueled up on burger king I knew I had plenty of calories in me to make a big push with minimal water stops. The drizzle rain made another appearance but at this point I was like bring it on!

So many fast moving cars! The good news is that I made the southerly turn towards Anchorage so no more mister head wind! I could tear up the flats at a blistering 18+ MPH! Yuppers!

Before I new it I arrived at the Anchorage City limit welcoming sign! What a relief! There was actually a small queue of people waiting to take photos so I offered to snap a video for one guy and his dog. They recently moved here and the dog is his best buddy. I can totally relate. He offered to snap my photo but we needed to wait for two ladies from Guatemala wanting to pose with their countries flag in celebration of their independence (September 15th). They were taking so long that the guy with the dog needed to move on. I actually interrupted the ladies and asked if I could sneak in between there 50 photos as mine won’t take but a second. They agreed and kindly snapped a few photos for me. Nice ladies but no sense of urgency as I waited at least 15 minutes before interrupting! 🙂

Six miles later I arrived at the courtyard Marriott! Yay! I checked in and they delivered my boxes which I shipped from Fairbanks. They let me use one of the conference rooms to disassemble and pack up my stuff. I decided to tackle that before going to my room since I’ll probably get dirty anyhow and wanted to get that wrapped up so I could relax. It took about an hour or so to get everything organized and packed but I was now ready for a much needed shower to remove the stink from my body!

After getting cleaned up I summoned an Lyft to take me to the 49th State Brewery in downtown Anchorage where I’ve read they have great beer and great vegan options. After waiting in line I found a communal seat and ordered the ‘almost chicken tacos’ and a beer. OMG these tacos were awesome! I’ve never had anything like this in Chicago but would love to find a place that served them! I was still hungry so I ordered a chips and salsa and another beer (don’t recall which) as a post dinner dessert. 😁 Much better food experience than I had in Fairbanks!

Relaxing on a rooftop enjoying the view with a nice local craft beer just seems like an appropriate way to end my adventure. Exploring Alaska by bicycle has been the most amazing personal experience of my life. I faced many mental and mechanical obstacles which tested my patience and problem solving skills. The many mountain passes encountered in and out of wonderlake were a true test of my ability. Camping for 9 days straight in bear country through all kinds of weather is tough on the nerves. The three consecutive 77 mile days to Anchorage were grueling and monotonous. Honestly, I am amazed that my 49 year old body and mind got me through it all. Thanks to all who followed and cheered me on! Reading your comments lifted me up and provided motivation when I needed it most so thank you!

I’ve met many people from all walks of life on this trip. Complete strangers offering help or giving when in need. A simple act of kindness goes a long way like giving Snickers bars to a tired cyclist. That is the giving spirit i think this country is founded on. I can honestly say that politics aside I believe we all want what is best for each other and great things are possible if we can learn to compromise. Let’s learn from the land and let it guide us…

---

The most difficult thing for me was being away from Swati, Kona and family. I’d much rather share experiences with them than by myself. I think I’m ready to move on to other adventures with Swatz and retire from cycle touring all together. I’ve seen so much beauty in nature and in humans along each and every one of the tours I’ve done and am grateful for those that have joined me in the past. It has certainly taught me patience, resilience and the willingness to compromise.

Heading north to the future taught me that the future is in your own hands. It’s the decisions and choices that you make that will define you and steer the ship that is your life. Don’t be afraid to change the ships course… Sometimes change is what you need without you even knowing you need it.

-Dennis

Distance: 76.9 miles
Avg speed: 15.1 mph
Max speed: 26.6 mph
Ascent: 1467 ft
Saddle time: 05:06

I awoke to the 6:30AM phone alarm and realized that I finally got a pretty good night’s rest! Stomach sleep at its best! It was barely light outside so I started packing up what I could see and that was my sleeping bag and air mattress. It was remarkably warm in the cabin which I didn’t expect. Normally I need to immediately put on all layers after waking up to stay warm but not today!

My goal was to be on the road around 8AM to hopefully avoid some of the high speed bus/semi/auto traffic as it can get downright frightening out there. The semis and autos do a great job giving me space along the shoulder but the massive tour busses could care less. They almost never give any space and they don’t even slow down! I swear I could reach out and touch them when they come whizzing by at 70MPH. It is two fold really. You get the freaky close drive-by followed by an intense wind gust that, if you don’t have both hands on the steering, would almost certainly result in loss of control. It is a similar, but even more fierce story for the oncoming trucks and busses. The wind when they fly by feels like you are riding into a massive wind gust immediately slowing you down. Again, you definitely need both hands on the steering when those big guys are coming at ya. You can really feel the impacts of this when climbing a steep grade at 6MPH. You are already working hard and barely moving when the wind gust from on coming traffic wants to push you back more than the hill! You must always be ready to react and set your pace expectations accordingly.

There was a nice morning overcast which kept the temps down which is what I prefer. I tend to sweat a lot which soaks my clothes and can make for some uncomfortable riding. I was feeling really good after 15 when I can across a little lodge with a restaurant. Now would be a good time to relax a bit. The girl even gave me the secret wifi password so I could call Swati to let her know all was still going as planned. The staff have me some Intel w.r.t. what services lie between here and Willow Creek which is very valuable. There were a few fuel stations in trapper creek (15 miles from here) of which one has a restaurant and another with a Subway (35ish miles from here). So, I planned my day according to that info.

It always amazes me how many road signs/markers there are along the roads of the United States (many with bullet holes). I swear the amount of resources consumed to manufacture, install and maintain these must be expensive. I can imagine as electric cars evolve there might come a time when road signs are a thing of a bygone era. The exit and road information these days can simply be displayed on your cars touchscreen as you approach what would have been a physical sign. Even bike tourers can get this information on their bike computers. It can dispay the real time lodging availability, charging stations, food etc. I wonder if this will ever actually happen…

After 15 miles I entered trapper creek a and like clock work found the first gas station/restaurant. It was a very cute place that also appeared to rent small cabins. They offered showers too! I bought a Gatorade, hostess pie and coffee and took a seat inside as it was still a bit chilly out there.

The sun started breaking through and I was in need of break when in the middle of nowhere there was Jana’s Jumpin’ Java duel drive thru (Telketina AK). I pulled up to the window where a very friendly woman happily explained all the Italian soda offerings. I went with cherry and parked in the back. There was a guy sitting back there that clearly knew the girl so we chatted while I enjoyed my icy beverage. He was sporting a clearly visible side arm which is the first I’ve seen since being up here. We were talking about the forest fires and he declared that these damn tree huggers don’t understand that some of these trees need to be cut down otherwise mother nature will eventually burn them down anyhow. He brought up some very good points and I’m sure there is some merit. There always is a fine line to compromise and reaching that line can be difficult. He had a dog named Rosco sitting in his truck so I asked to pet him. Rosco is a large pit bull softy. He had his head resting on the door window frame of the guys jeep so as to always keep his owner in sight. Very cool dog.

At mile 50 it was time for my Subway lunch. The place was booming and I had to wait about 10 minutes before placing an order. I got a foot long veggie delight of which I ate half and saved the other half for my destination. I used their WiFi to check up on things and relaxed a bit from the afternoon sun.

About 20 or so miles from Willow Creek I could see the first real signs of the forest fires. As I road through the fire zone I saw burned out vehicles and structures. It looked isolated but I’m sure these people are devastated. There were many fire staff chopping timber and dousing smouldering piles with water. They made these temporary pool like structures where they would store the water along side the road. Basically, I fire truck would go to a creek to fill it’s tank and then deposit the water in various pools along the stretch of road. The fire fighters then had pumps to drive their hoses. These guys are true heros taking risks in order to help save people’s homes and businesses. The residents showed their appreciation with signage all along the road and in front of businesses and homes.

The night before I slightly altered my plan. I knew there was an RV campground along the highway at the edge of town. Staying there would shave off like 5 miles round trip from my original destination which required me to veer west a bit. Plus, it had nice flush toilets and showers too so why not indulge a little and save myself the extra miles in the process?

I pull into the place and immediately see like 10 rabbits of all colors just sitting there. They didn’t seem to be afraid of humans and were almost like a petting zoo. My immediate thought was of that 1972 horror film ‘Night of the Lepus’. Basically, attack of the killer rabbits.

I walked into the registration office where the lady gave me a $8 discount as I didn’t have a vehicle which was nice as I was willing to pay full price. She gave me a nice grassy like area away from most of the RVers.

I setup camp, showered and ate dinner (freeze dried food and the remaining half of my Subway). I finished the evening sitting indoors near the bathroom/laundry area writing and collect information for tomorrow’s last push to Anchorage.

Distance: 76.3 miles
Avg speed: 13.2 mph
Max speed: 29.8 mph
Ascent: 2186 ft
Saddle time: 05:47

Today was filled with many challenges both mechanical and mental. I was too pooped to write last night so I intend to revisit this and the other posts later. However, I figured it was nice to at least provide some photos with captions for now!

I tossed and turned all night and awoke before my 7:00AM alarm. I got everything organized and went to the restaurant for breakfast. I sort of over did it this time. I had the skillet with avacado egg substitute. I the ordered a side of has browns and toast. I was concerned about the lack of services so wanted to really fuel up.

I talked with two guys from Anchorage at the table next to mine about any Intel on my route. The one guy is in land planning and moved here 3 years ago from LA and he loves it. The other guy is an anchorage native and they work together. I had mentioned my tire issue and asked how often do state troopers drive the road or how likely is it that someone will stop to help. They said most people would stop if I waved them down as they understand how remote I was. They said they would offer me a ride as they were heading to Anchorage but their place pickup is full of equipment. Speaking with them put me a bit at ease. I headed back to the room, loaded the bike and headed out.

I had a rest break and when getting ready to leave I noticed the rear tire was almost flat. Damn! I immediately checked the sidewall and it seemed fine. I have two spare tubes so I quickly swapped it out. It is tough getting the proper pressure into these tires using a small hand pump but she held air and seemed fine.

Some time later a squeak and grind noise began to happen when pedalling. It didn’t happen on every revolution but is periodic in nature. It is especially bad under load. I cannot tell if it is the crank, rear cassette or rear hub. It is totally fine when coasting which makes it tough to debug…especially on the side of the road with speeding traffic. I’ll just need to continue on and hope she stays together…

I finally reached the Byers Lake Campground and rolled down entry road. A sign said ‘path to cabins 1,2 and 3’. I figured okay I’ll walk my bike. It started off fine but then got really really thick. I could tell by my bike computer that another entrance road was up ahead. It was too late to go back and don’t think i could rotate the bike 180 degrees if tried. So, after some time bushwhacking with my bike I ended up on the road that I was supposed to turn down (my navigational blunder)

I then took the dirt road to my cabin and it felt like a scene from a movie. It was much better than I ever imagined. I was totally dehydrated as I ran out of water a few miles back and took an unintended hike to get here so water filtration was priority number one. It took about 20 minute to Sawyer squeeze filter several liters. I then downed one! I could tell I really needed this water as I was actually a little dizzy..

So many times today I questioned why I am doing this. The headwinds were pesky. The crazy highway traffic. The massive trucks. A bike that is hurting. A body that is tired… But, I somehow kept it together and managed to reach my destination. I pretty much relaxed and planned for a early departure to tomorrow.

Distance: 34.2 miles
Avg speed: 13.2 mph
Max speed: 32.0 mph
Ascent: 1973 ft
Saddle time: 02:35

I woke up to a cloudy but dry morning! Will be nice packing up a dry tent for once! I told Rick I’d meet him for coffee and breakfast around 8:30AM. So, I quickly packed up and headed to the common area.

I was making my usual freeze dried meal and Rick was brewing some Dunkin donuts coffee. He is a Starbucks guy but friends have told he he should try Dunkin. He said he is kind of a coffee snob and that if he didn’t like it he could blend it in. He opened the package and said it smelled like Folgers! As we were enjoying breakfast a new comer arrived and joined us.

She is on a 4 month hike exploring various areas of Alaska and Canada. She is a park ranger in Utah and has been doing this for 13 years. She is very knowledgeable and full of interesting facts.she mentioned that Utah was considering a bus system much like Denali but decided against it as it was too expensive and would ruin the experience. I can understand that…

I said my goodbyes and thanked Rick for his hospitality. We will try to keep in touch and I shared my blog url. I loaded the panniers and off I went.p

The miles were normal until a gentleman in an RV stopped to inform me of a moose up ahead. I proceeded with caution and captured some photos.

It was total bliss once I reached the paved portion of the road. It felt like an instant boost in speed. I can now finally enjoy the downhills with confidence!

Eventually I rolled up to the visitor center. A few people came over and asked about my ride. A few older gentleman said that seems like a reasonable amount of miles. Clearly these guys had no idea! I said yes, but you’re forgetting about the gravel and the 4000 to 5000 ft of climbing involved. I’m not sure why I bothered…

I went in and immediately approached the only table near the wall with an outlet. I was running low and my backup battery ended this morning. A young German guy was sitting there juicing up his devices so I asked if I could sit and use the other available outlet. He was fine with that.

This young man is van/backpacking with a few friends in Canada and Alaska. He said his buddy had to secure the van as he wasn’t yet 25 so the rental company would rent to him. He saw my ortlieb panniers and asked about my travels. He also said he used to work in a bike shop in Germany and ortlieb was popular there. He didn’t realize they were also available in the US. I wanted to call Swati so I needed to cut the conversation.

I spoke with Swati to let her know I survived the arduous journey down Parks road. It was great hearing her voice and briefly catching up.

I then enjoyed a black bean burger with fries and a soda. It was magical. After about 1.5 hours I headed to the mercantile to do laundry.

As you can imagine my laundry wasn’t smelling very fresh. So, I grabbed a seat in the laundry room and waited our my load. I caught up on my blog and did a little shopping the the store. The lady behind the counter mentioned another store just a little out of my way but had a much larger selection. I’ll hit that for supplies on my to McKinley Creek Cabins..

I had noticed my rear fender had come loose so I popped off the rear tire and while doing so noticed I suffered a small sidewall tear likely from all the gravel riding. Not sure when it shortly happened or how long I’ve been riding like this. This is actually sort of a serious problem. Stupid me didn’t bring any spare folding tires (very dumb considering the terrain) but I did bring some tire boots which are meant to temporarily repair these kinds of injuries. I cleaned it up, applied the patch and reassembled. It looks good but only time will tell if I’ll make it to the nearest bike shop on my route some 180 miles away. I’ll have to keep a keen eye on this one…

After cleaning up I went into the restaurant for some dinner. They a few options that they could make vegan so I went with the stir fry. It was quite yummy. I also indulged in a beer and the drink special! I actually sort of regretted it as I felt a little tipsy afterwards…

Bed is soooooo soft and warm! Been 9 days camping and sleeping on an air mattress in the mummy sleeping bag. Will be nice to Stomach sleep comfortably again! Hopefully the tire issue won’t keep me awake…

Distance: 11.4 miles
Avg speed: 13.0 mph
Max speed: 29.1 mph
Ascent: 413 ft
Saddle time: 00:53

I awoke around 7AM to the sound of rain hitting the fly. It’s an all to familiar sound here at Denali. It should clear up as the sun rises and heats up the air. So, I went back asleep til around 8:30. While gloomy it sounded like the rain had stopped so I got dressed and broke down the internals of my little home. I then grabbed most everything including my bike and headed to the common area for shelter, breakfast and to pack my panniers. I’ll let the tent stay here and hopefully dry off before tearing that down.

The common area was packed with people and all of their belongings strewn on the tables. One couple removed their stuff from one of the two tables they were using so I had a place to sit. The girls from the night before asked if I was still going to sanctuary as I mentioned last night that might push through to Riley Creek. I said I’m not sure yet. I’ll probably make the decision once I arrive at sanctuary. They were pushing me to do it.

After breakfast I filtered some water and tore down my tent. When I returned everyone had cleared the area and began their day. I too should push off while the weather is holding up.

There was a rather fancy scenic pull out complete with bathrooms so I figured I’d stop to take a look considering I past it on the way in. A group of 3 woman and 1 guy were trying to take a selphie so I offered to take the photo for them. Afterwards, the three women wanted a photo with me so I asked if they also capture one on my phone.

I arrived at sanctuary in under an hour and decided to roll in to check it out as planned. While rolling in I started the only camper currently there. I apologized for the stealth entrance and he was super nice and friendly.

Rick is a 61 year old divorced grand father with 3 children of his own. He worked in Denali in the 80s and has been coming back yearly ever since mainly for photography. He knows many of the staff and bus drivers so he occasionally catches rides back into town. He loves coming to sanctuary for a week before heading out to wonderlake. Today, he was going in on the bus to eat a cheeseburger and he asked if I needed anything and he would pick it up. How very nice of Rick to go out of his way for a complete stranger. I thankfully declined and he then he offered me some candy. I didn’t want to refuse his kind gesture so I happily accepted 2 bite sizes Snickers bars from his personal stash. I knew right then that I should stay the night.

Rick suggested a spot that he said was his second favorite. It had a killer path to the river where I’d need to go for water so I secured it. He had mentioned that I was the third cyclist this week that had stayed but most were only going as far in as igloo and then exiting the park. In fact, the couple with baby stayed here. He said they were so nice but super paranoid of the bears. Rick said the wife was adorable as she would clutch the bear spray even if she ventured 10ft away from camp. He said he’s been alone the past few nights so I’m sure having someone to talk to is nice.

Rick was so excited to show me some photos of the elusive Lynx that he got a few nights back. The cat actually wandered into his camp and actually say next to his tent. He was so excited as this obviously never happens. He said he will go it again tonight searching and if I was interested u could join him. You know I’m not passing up this opportunity! He said he would be back probably around 5:30pm (he was catching the 1pm bus into Riley Creek I believe). So, he headed off towards the road to meet up with his buddy who would here anytime.

The first thing I did was setup camp. Rick had mentioned that it hasn’t rained since he arrived a 5 days back which is great as I’m tired of rolling up a wet tent and rain fly! So, fingers crossed the pattern continues!

I then decided to do a little exploring so I headed into the woods for a little adventure. It is so amazing how thick the ground cover is here. Your foot sinks at least 10 inches into the extremely soft covering. I cannot imagine how long it would have taken people 50+ years ago to trek though this terrain with the gear they had. Amazing…

After about a 1/4 mile I decided to head back and have lunch and work on my posts. As I’m sitting there quietly two large bunnies entered the common area and were picking crumbs from between the gravel which lined the floor of the common area. They were totally fine with me being there! I captured some shots and video and even talked to them a little. They are definitely built a little more rugged up here in Alaska but are adorable nonetheless!

Rick returned and asked if I was still up for the hike to try and photoshoot the lynx. He also brought me 4 more mini Snickers as he had a bag full in his rental car back in town. Again, so generous of him to go out if his way. His bus driver buddy had captured a photo with his iphone if a lynx with 3 kittens entering the woods across the road. Rick was super excited to search that area so I put on my hiking boots and off we went!

We did a good search while talking about lynx and other wildlife. Rick is very knowledgeable and was eager to share his experiences. In all the years he’s been coming he’s never had a bear encounter in Denali. His good friend whom is the camp host at wonderlake (I met but didn’t know his name) was viciously attacked with his girlfriend many years back in Glacier National Park. They needed to be air lifted to the hospital in Kalispell where they spent months recovering. Apparently the guy kept his clothes he was wearing and you could see just how bloody and ripped up they were. I’m surprised the guy isn’t freaked out and never returned to the woods… But here he is…

We were unsuccessful in locating the Lynx so we headed back. Rick said he’ll probably go again as it gets slightly darker. He believes she’ll be more active then. Again her offered and I accepted as I was having a blast! So, we decided to go after i ate dinner. Rick went if to photograph some nature.

Our second trip was also a bust. But, as Rick pointed out, at least we got in a nice hike! For me it was an awesome adventure. Rick was a little disappointed as he really wanted to get a shot of the Lynx with her liter. He mentioned that tonight might be clear and that the northern lights may be visible. He said, if I wanted, that he could wake me if he sees them. I was like absolutely. Unfortunately, they never came…

Distance: 52.4 miles
Avg speed: 8.3 mph
Max speed: 26.9 mph
Ascent: 4844 ft
Saddle time: 06:17

Beautiful Sunny Morning

I had set my alarm for 6:00AM so that I could get an early start on the day. Unfortunately, I tossed and turned all night likely due to nerves about tomorrow’s ride. So, at 5:00AM I reset my alarm for 6:30AM in hopes I actually get some real sleep. Sadly, that didn’t really happen. So, I did get up at 6:30AM and broke down camp.

While suiting up I thought I’d show off my MTB shoe covers as they have been invaluable in keeping my shoes dry and also keeping my feet warm. Mind you, the MTB boots I have are Gore Tex and fully water proof. However, water can still get into the top where the ankle is and also where the laces are. I know this first hand from riding home from the office in a down pour. When I reached home my feet were swimming in water. I literally had to dump the water from the boot into the sink! So, I decided right then that a MTB rain cover was probably a good investment. Relieved I bought them as they sure have saved my feet in this unpredictable Alaskan weather…

As I was eating breakfast I happen to look up and there was Denali revealing herself once again! I’m so lucky! Perhaps this is a sign of good things to come on this crazy climb filled day!

Eielson Visitor Center

The main goal of the morning was to climb the 2000ft and knock off 20 miles in the process to the Eielson Visitor center where I would eat lunch. The morning ride felt really good and I was making great time with the steady rise in elevation. I was within 2 miles of the visitor center when I see a red fox sitting in the middle of the road roughly 50 yards ahead. As I continued the fox would also continue down the road stopping whenever I stopped to take photos. This went on for about a mile. Eventually he must have gotten board or knew the visitor center was in close proximity because he darted of into the bush never to be seen again. I’m gonna miss having that cute little guy keep me company!

I reached the visitor center which sits on a ridge. There was overcast and a real nasty wind chill. I grab some supplies and headed into the warmth of the building. I made camp on a wooden bench near the entrance, plugged in my devices for charging and began eating peanut butter and a bagel.

The place is a popular destination for the tour buses and can get quite crowded when a new bus enters. It looks like they only show so many buses at a time because when I rolled in I could see standing buses waiting their turn.

Off to my right is the rangers desk where people can schedule hikes or ask general questions. They are super polite which might be tough as person after person seem to all ask similar questions. Will I be able to do the 1200ft hike? The rangers always replied with something like ‘you can always turn around and head back if your feeling tired but ultimately it is up to you as I do not know your capability.’. I’m sure the ranger wants to roll her eyes and say ‘look lady, clearly you’ve never done this before so maybe you stick to the easier hike?’. Or, maybe I’m just thinking that… 🙂

After thawing out my frozen hands and finishing my lunch I parted ways with Eielson.  I know I have 5 passes to get over so I need to get the legs warmed up!

Thorofare pass

When you leave Eielson heading outbound you have to immediately begin the climb to Thorofare Pass. My body was feeling good after the pitstop so kept my head down and grinded away. I was so busy tearing up the road that I must of cruised right passed the Thorofare Pass sign so no photo.

.. Damn it! As you can imagine I didn’t feel like riding back up hill to take one 🙂

Stoney Pass

After the nice downhill glide from Thorofare you enter a valley and then begin the Stoney Pass switchbacks. These ranged from 4 to 8 percent grades which take some effort. As I was climbing the sun came out and raised the temperature. I took off the showerpass rain coat and basked in the sun for the remainder of the climb. The smart wool needed drying from wy sweat so this really helped! This time I made sure to remember to snap a photo.

Highway Pass

Stoney pass has the same type of switchbacks on the other side but cruising down these requires a lot of braking as you need to make turns in or to switch back. On one of the turns I caught a little gravel but managed to keep the bike upright. You’ve always got to have your A game when out here. There is no forgiveness for those who’s minds drift from the task in front of you.

Once I reached the valley and began the long and tedious climb an on coming bus stopped and flagged me over to talk. She said that there were two grizzlies up the road about a mile and that I should be very careful as they are getting close to the road. She recommended that once I get near that I wait for a bus to shadow me through. If the bear comes down to the road or charges do not ride my bike but put the bike between me and the bear. Riding could trigger the bears presator instinct to chase. First a sense of exhilaration…but that was short lived as a sense of terror overcame me. The bus drove off and I was all alone.

As I approached the area I could see a tour bus stopped about one half mile ahead of me. That must be where the bears are I thought. However, I glanced to my right and in a meadow down below I encountered my first grizzly! It is difficult to see in the photos but if zoom in you can make out the brown furry guy eating berries. He was probably a quarter mile or so away which is far beyond the recommended 300 yards.

I continued up towards the stop bus and as I got closer he pulled up to tell me to wait for the next bus going in my direction as the bear was just off the road. Just then a bus was approaching and he said he would tell that driver. So, I waited and I could see the bus driver telling the other driver in my rear view. I looked off to my left and could see the grizzly bear on the up hill slope eating berries just 50 yards from me and the road. He was probably at a 20 degree and from me. I felt tiny as this guy was enormous!

I started riding very slowly expecting the bus to shadow me but he instead pulls right by me and stops perpendicular to the bear (50 ft ahead maybe). I was shocked and a bit pissed. This bear has turned a few times to check me out so he knows I’m there. He could easily run down the hill before I pedal to the bus. So, I proceeded with caution. As I got to the front of the bus the bus driver didn’t even notice me as he, like his passengers, were all taking photos of the bear! Basically I was alone out here. I slowly continued on and managed to snap a pic of the bears behind. I wanted one of his side but he only turned to look at me and assess whether I was a threat so naturally I wasn’t thinking ‘gee maybe I should put down the bear spray and take a photo’. After all the excitement I continued on to live another day.

Looking back it was quite an awesome experience. To be so close to an apex predator knowing I was could be prey was humbling. Had the bus not told me I could have easily rode up and startled the bear without noticing and things could have ended badly for me.

Polychrome Pass

The clouds were rolling in as I began the downhill towards the start of Polychrome Pass. They opened up with a mix of rain and sleet. The sleet doesn’t feel so nice hitting your face as 20+ MPH! Up ahead I say two more cyclists! I needed to catch up and say hello!

The three (not two) were each riding 29er bikes and the man had their child strapped into a baby seat eating a sucker. The couple are from England where they sold everything, came to Canada and bought an RV. I hear his more and more… They were doing a bike ride from the Eielson center bake to the Teklanika campground where their RV is parked. Clearly they were not prepared for the weather as he was wearing shorts with a cheap rain poncho and she was at least wearing tights and a heavier jacket. The child was absolutely loving it despite the frigid temps. As we were coasting down he even offered me his sucker! How adorable! They were probably going to flag down a bus as the weather was just to much for them.

After some more climbing I eventually reached the summit if Polychrome Pass. If you recall from my previous post this place was crawling with tour busses and people. Today, at least at this time, it was completely vacant except a lone cyclist wearing bike shorts and a CamelBak. He is originally from Texas but is now the camp host for Teklanika campground. He came here when he was 19 and immediately fell in love. Riding up to Polychrome to soak in the sights is his favorite thing to do. I continued on my way and said I’m sure I’ll see you again as you overtake me later.

Sable Pass

I let gravity take over on the downhill and as I started the uphill for Sable the sun came out. I was feeling like now would be an excellent time to stop and have a snack and maybe warm up in the sun. I knew this pass was going to take some effort so the calories will surely stoke the fire.

After my 15 minute break I continued on. A mile in I could see the cyclist from Polychrome in my rear view. He was slowly catching me which isn’t surprising since my loaded bike weighs a ton. I really wanted to try to fight him off as it took my mind off of the climb. However, my legs were getting tired and I needed some water so I stopped for a quick break. He caught me and said this pass is toughie but we’ll pull through and he continued on his way. I left shortly thereafter and kept him in my sights for as long as I could but he eventually pulled away on a short downhill never to be seen again. It was a much needed distract that made the climb go by quicker.

Igloo Creek Campground

I thoroughly enjoyed the lengthy downhill towards Igloo creek. As I approached the campground I could see a rather large crowd gathered at either side of the road. They weren’t your typical hiker crowd neither. They were all snapping photos and pointing. It was as if I had a welcoming crowd cheering me in as I’ve just conquered wonderlake back roads! I think I yelled something like ‘look at all the people!’. I didn’t really know what else to say as it totally took me by surprise.

I arrive to a nearly empty campground. 6 of 7 sites were available. I knew a bus would be arriving soon with the possibility of some additional campers. So, I went through each site to see which felt right to me. I could hear the bus coming so I ran back to my site from a few nights ago and took that one. I know it is lame but it just felt like home!

So I’m making lunch and a young couple walk into the common area. I say hello and the guy ignores me and the girl just kinda looked and continued on. I thought to myself ‘I bet they are French’. They began spending to each other in, you guess it, ‘French’. I almost never run into friendly French people. I guess that is why they are the brunt of most jokes. Conversation is just not in their vocabulary…. Unless you too are French. I’ve seen this happen multiple times where two random French people realize they in proximity to each other and they begin to talk. I’m guessing they are probably complaining about something because they never look happy…

So I’m still sitting in the common area (better than the tent) when the French return to make dinner. I kept to myself but wanted to see if they would put a table cloth or something nice to cover these dirty picnic stands. Okay, I’m being mean..

Moments later two women entered and I said hello. They smiled and actually replied! They were not French but rather American. They were like you are that biker guy? Then we exchanged routes and small talk. They were playing cards and having fun which most certainly annoyed the Frenchies at the next table. 🙂

Stomach felt fine after today’s ride and was already ready for dinner despite eating 1.5 hours ago. Who am I to tell my stomach no? I went ahead and slaved over a jet boil to prepare some Three Sisters Stew.

I wrapped up the night by taking a little stroll as the rain subsided. I figured I’d sleep in tomorrow since sanctuary campgrounds is only 12 miles away. Or maybe I should just press on to Riley Creek? I dunno. I’ll decide that tomorrow. Either way my legs earned a late morning departure…

I awoke to camper chatter and Parks crew clearing brush along the paths. It was 8:30AM and figured it was time to start the day. It seemed much warmer here than at igloo so changing into my camp clothes was much less painful. I headed to the food pantry to get my tooth brush and do some morning maintenance.

All freshened up I began to make make some breakfast and coffee. I needed to make the tough decision if I should hike to McKinley river which is roughly 5 or so miles round trip or take it easy for tomorrow’s ride. As I was pondering this a young woman named Laura sat down at another table and we starting talking. She is from Ontario Canada here with her friend Mercedes (who’s not into camping). No surprise with a name like that. Yesterday they walked the McKinley trail but had to turn back just a quarter mile short due to a grizzly bear eating berries in the path. Needless to say they were both a little freaked as the bear was within 50yards which is way to close. That said the path was relatively easy but they were a bit bummed not making it the distance.

After breakfast I thought maybe I should do this hike. I took off my sandals and landed up my boots and prepared to leave. I knew emotionally I was ready but my brain kept interrupting me telling me that tomorrow is going to be the toughest day of cycling that I’ve ever experienced and that rest is what I need. I knew my brain was correct. While I feel really good with only minor soreness in my right knee I knew that 5 miles would take a toll on me legs and calories. So, I kicked off the boots and on went the sandals. I’ll just have to come back with Swati and we can do the hike together!

I spent the next 20 minutes cleaning my chain and reapplying synthetic oil. The dust from the gravel road really takes its toll on the drivetrain so coming prepared with chain oil was a good call.

I was walking to the bathroom when Damen and Peter approached. They were heading out on the 12:20PM bus. We wished each other well on our journeys and they went on their way. I felt like I was saying goodbye friends. They were unique but totally authentic and really easy to talk to. Best wishes gents!

It was just about noon so I decided to make some lunch as I was getting quite the appetite. I had freeze dried spaghetti with soy chunks and marinara. This was most delicious! My favorite thus far.

I was fairly behind on my posts so I sat at my picnic table in camp writing while basking in the warm sun. I layed much of my cycling gear on the table to thoroughly dry out as it is actually nice and warm. In a few hours time I wrote day 7 and day 8. There are these little pesky swarming insects that are quite annoying. Fortunately I knew ahead of time to bring a mosquito net/hat. It sure made writing more enjoyable not having to constantly swat. Another great product I purchased from Klymit was this blow up seat pad. OMG by butt thanks me very much. Really cozy when sitting on the hard wooden picnic table seats. It packs up small and only cost me $8!

I needed a break from writing so I decided to go for a walk to explore a bit in and outside of the campground. Such an enchanting place. The sights, smells and sounds of nature are not easily replicated in photos. You’ve just got to get out and experience it to really appreciate the world we live in.

I headed back to the common area for a vegan jerky snack and to start day 9’s post. I’m looking forward to tonights ranger talk at 7:30pm. The ranger came by last night to personally invite each and every camper to attend if they could. Unfortunately, I missed last night’s due to eating dinner and relaxing. However, I could hear the presentation off in the distance and that ranger was really getting into it. You can tell he really loves what he does.

Ranger Program

Today’s presentation was on dinosaurs in Denali National Park. I hadn’t realized that the first proof of dinosaurs living here was found in 2005! That’s pretty recent right? Since that finding they have found thousands more foot prints. In 2016 they found their first dinosaurs bones. The paper hasn’t been published yet so the type of dinosaurs hasn’t been released. Also, excavation here is not allowed so scientists are only able to make casts of what they see on the surface and are not allowed to remove anything. It was a well done presentation by a ranger whom loves her dinosaurs!

We were interrupted by a flock of migrating cranes flying off in the distance. Amazingly you could hear them calling from such a far distance. Apparently there will be many more flocks heading to Florida in the coming weeks to escape the Alaskan winter.

I’ve done all I could today to prepare for what tomorrow brings. The latest weather posted in the common area says possible early morning rain then partly sunny. The ranger even joked when I asked her if there were any updates. She said they rarely say partly sunny so odds are it will be a nice afternoon. Hopefully the forecast comes to fruition as nice weather really helps one to stay warm and positive… Although, with 5000ft of climbing I’m sure I’ll be plenty warm… The positive is TBD…

Distance: 52.6 miles
Avg speed: 7.0 mph
Max speed: 23.2 mph
Ascent: 4043 ft
Saddle time: 07:32

Cold Drizzly Morning

It drizzled of and on throughout the night and finally let up around 7:00Am. It was extremely cold and I just wanted to stay in my bag but I knew better. I tore down camp and made my way to the common area to eat breakfast.

As I was walking in I met a couple (maybe in their late 50s) eating breakfast. They are from some remote island up north Alaska where the population is like 2000 people. She had been there for 30 years while he for 10. Interestingly, they met each other through an online dating app and are both from prior relationships. Not what I expected to hear. They are selling their tiny home and moving to Idaho sometime this year. They really enjoy the sustainable lifestyle but the cold winters can be tough so it is time to migrate south to their ‘Florida’ home. Their daughter is a ranger in training and will be meeting them this morning to go hiking. I can tell they are really excited to meet up with her as she has been gone most of the summer. Just then their daughter arrived earlier than expected. You could definitely see the joy in their eyes!

A few moments later the young couple from CA arrived so we all ahead some chit-chat. I was running a bit behind schedule so I finished up breakfast, said my goodbyes and hit the road.

Sable Pass

This is the first of five passes that I needed to get over. It was cold and gloves were still wet so it made for a rather miserable beginning. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves

Polychrome Pass

Polychrome wasn’t quite as long as sable pass but she had her fair share of 8 to 10% grades along the way. I felt physically and emotionally strong despite having cold hands. Somewhere along the road two tour buses stopped just ahead of me and they were gazing at a moose of to their right. I decided to pass to the left and just when I got to the front of the buses I saw a massive male moose just in the left shoulder in the brush. Probably 5 ft from the edge. He was shaking his head with these huge antlers (not sure the correct name) as he was trying to work his way through the brush and onto the street. I immediately peddled faster than I have ever pedaled to put some distance between us. Whew, that was exciting but closer than I liked!

At the summit there were several tour buses parked so people could take scenic photos. Many approached me for photos while others were cheering me on hoping I would make the summit (They had passed me earlier). It was all a little surreal actually. The tour bus driver walked over and said he liked my bike setup. He also gave me a quick lay of the land. Highway pass will be tough but the remaining 3 passes have more manageable grades… I hope he is right.

Highway Pass

Indeed, this pass was grueling. With tour buses to share the road with it can be white knuckle at times as the gravel in the edges was sloped and loose. One bad maneuver and you’d end up in the ditch. Not to mention, one really cannot safely cruise the downhill on any of these climbs due to the loose gravel and sand like mud. This of course is a bummer and will add to the overall time on the saddle.

Towards the beginning of the climb I noticed the bike was feeling slow and could hear the tires rubbing so I stopped to investigate. The front fender was clogged with road sand. I found some twigs along side of the road and began picking it out. I then figured it would be easier to remove the front panniers and remove the tire. Unfortunately, the pannier locking mechanisms were stuck from the mud and tiny pebbles so those weren’t coming off and I didn’t want to accidently break them so I continued removing with the stick. I was eventually able to get the front and rear wheels to move freely again which made a noticabl difference in drag. There was no way I would have made this climb without clearing that shit out! I pressed on and was very relieved to get over this pass as I knew the next two should be easier…

Stoney Pass

Surprisingly, this one was a rather small in distance and had switch backs with a nasty 7 to 8% grade for the duration. I was hoping it would be easier but I just kept in the granny gear and crept my way up. There was a small pullout with a tour van and as I slowly passed them and the woman said ‘Much Respect!’ Such a nice compliment… Now I have to motor all the way up without stopping otherwise she might take the comment back! 🙂

Thorofare Pass

I knew this pass was like 300 to 400 foot climb to the top. I was actually surprised when I reached it as it felt too easy. I thought for sure I would go around a bend and there would be more. But, my trip computer said I was there and so did the official signage!

Wonderlake Campground

I knew just after the 5 passes stood the Eielson visitor center. I wanted to take a break before doing the last 20 mostly downhill stretch to wonderlake.

I reached the visitor center and immediately saw Walt from igloo campground. I walk over and said hello and was like who are you? I jogged his memory and he then remembered. It was kind of funny actually. We exchange small talk and then I entered the center. I was really hoping for some coffee but unfortunately they don’t serve anything. They did have toilets and drinking fountain tho. So, I tooled around the interactive relief map, make a bathroom pitstop, filled up a water bottle and headed out. As I was rolling out I could hear Walt wishing me a safe journey. Very thoughtful.

I knocked out the next 8 miles before hitting a wall. I was feeling cold, and the constant up and downs were taking their toll. Not really physically but more mentally. I had really hoped this section would have been easier but it wasn’t. It was just a different kind of suck… The ‘I want this to end now’ kind of suck.

So I finally reach the entrance road to the campground. This road takes you 1 mile into the woods and drops the entire time at 8 to 9%. I immediately started doubting if I was ever going to be able to get out of here! Am I gonna need to plead to a outbound bus at the campground to haul my tired ass to igloo? Will I need to push my bike back up to the main road? I felt sick to my stomach actually. But then, up the road I see the two Czech guys Peter and Damon. They were both clapping and waving in jubilation that I made it! I stopped and they both gave me a celebratory fist pump followed by ‘did I see any wildlife?’ question. Haha. These poor guys really want to experience all the animals here in Alaska.

Camp

I wasn’t really sure where the camp sites were located as there wasn’t any clear markings when I meet two gentleman who were kind enough to lend a hand and point me in the right direction. I felt a little silly needing help but I was cold and mentally exhausted.

Most of the sites facing Denali mountain had already been claimed so I found a nice one on the interior. Easy to get the bike in, close to bathrooms and common area. I like it! I moved my food to the food storage shed and setup camp. I then changed into my cozy camp clothes (I love these prana Zion convertible pants) and headed off to make dinner.

I originally thought that I would eat two meals since I didn’t really have a proper lunch. However, I had a difficult time finishing just one due to my stomach feeling queasy. Then, during dinner the unthinkable happened.

The clouds covering up Denali’s peak disappeared and there she was in all of her glory! I ran out of the common area to snap some photos. Many of us were lined up to witness this. It was pretty amazing especially considering all the people I’ve spoken to who have come here and did not see the peak. That made my stomach feel a bit better and gave me a better outlook on climbing out of here on Monday. I’m one lucky dude to have witnessed this my first visit…

After gawking at Denali for a bit I figured it was only 7:45pm so I wrapped up dinner and went back to camp and decided to tend to my bike. She was in need of some TLC as she was coated in crud.

I began by knocking off at least a pound of mud from every crevasse could find. To help reduce the collection of mud I decided to move the fenders such that the distance between the tire and fender was greater. This should hopefully help reduce the amount that gets built up in there. And, it makes cleaning it out with a stick easier too should I need to do that down the road.

Around 9pm I started feeling hungry again so I made some coffee and enjoyed a slice of my shonu’s banana bread that she made especially for me! I made sure to save some for when I arrived at wonderlake so I can feel her here with me while I gaze at Mount Denali… Love you shons!

I lie in my sleeping bag at around 10:45pm reminiscing the days adventure. How it almost broke me but seeing Denali somehow made me realize I can make the climb out of here. I have what it takes to endure it and no matter how long it takes I will arrive at igloo… Ultimately, I can say with certainty, that today was an epic day that I shall never forget.

Distance: 35.2 miles
Avg speed: 8.4 mph
Max speed: 24.7 mph
Ascent: 3020 ft
Saddle time: 04:10

Thought I’d stay off with how my day ended. Despite the rain I still managed to to light one more campfire and use up my remaining wood. The warmth from the burning logs took the chill out of my bones and I nervously feel not fully knowing what lies ahead tomorrow…

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Unsurprisingly, I woke up to another rainy morning. I have quite diligent been monitoring the weather forecast so I knew that rain was expected throughout today. I took the first break in the rain to tear down camp. There is nothing like packing up a wet tent as every piece of debris wants to stick to it. I tend to use what I call ‘the roll and wipe’ method. For every roll I wipe. This tends to take care of the larger piercing stuff which would mean you’ll been repairing it at your next site which is the last thing you’ll want to be doing after riding a bike for half the day.

All packed up I made my way to the visitor center where I would eat breakfast and buy a long sleeved shirt. The rain really picked up during the ride which sent a chill to my bones. I was looking forward to some hot coffee!

I arrived at the visitor center around 8:30AM and immediately bought a shirt from what little options they had. They only had one style of which all the larges were gone so XL for me. The mercantile had more choices but I refused to cycle the 1.25 miles back so this will have to do.

I headed into the Marino Grill where I ordered a coffee and enjoyed my bagel and peanut butter I purchased the night before. I was hopeful that Swati and I could connect via Hangouts voice but is would ring and I never got through. I did see that she tried to call me about 30 minutes earlier but I was not yet in wifi range. I was a bit bummed as hearing her cheerful voice would have been great. Moreover I wanted to wish her luck in her upcoming run in Oregon. I know she’ll rock it!

I waited as long as I could for Swati and the rain but it was time to depart. Today would have the worst % grades of the entire trip and they start immediately… I nervously pushed off into the last frontier around 9:45AM…

Storm clouds were approaching so I quickly found an available site and pictched my tent. I literally just finished sinching down the rain fly when it let loose! Whew that was close! I then dashed to the common picnic area for shelter.

While eating dinner two back Packers strolled into the eating area. Damen and Peter currently reside in Milwaukee WI but are actually from the Czech Republic. Peter has pretty good English while Damen has some trouble so Peter would sort of translate. They arrived in igloo today morning by bus and were out hiking looking for animals. They were very disappointed as they didn’t encounter anything. These guys are really into hiking and he visited South Dakota, Sequoia, places in Europe. The allure of Alaska was to experience the wildlife. Unfortunately, it hasn’t quite panned out yet.

We continued chatting about sports (mainly NHL and soccer) and the usual small talk. Damen and Peter both enjoy using their electric marijuana cigarette and were very generous in offering me some. I gracefully declined and Damen said I would sleep like a baby. I don’t think I’ll have trouble sleeping after the day I’ve had. They were a little disappointed but understood. They finished up and were going to go on another hike.

Before retiring for the night I went to the common area for a late night snack. Here I met Walt who is from DC here on business travel. He works for the National Weather Service and has some work to do in Anchorage but squeezed in some hiking in between.

Sitting at another table was was a young couple from CA making dinner. He works in robotics while she was studying to become an architect. They were departing Denali tomorrow and were taking the train from Riley Creek to Anchorage. That sounds like a wonderful way to end the trip. Wish I would have thought of it! 🙂. She was Vietnamese and the stew she was preparing smelled delightful! Mind you, my stew was good but I’m almost certain theirs is better.

Everyone was wrapping up so I finished the evening inside my tent mentally preparing for the 5 mountain passes I have in front of me tomorrow. It is going to take all of my strength (mentally and physically) to push to the end. I only hope the rain holds back. The sounds of the creek outside combined with the winds blowing through the tree tops soothed my nerves as I closed my eyes and slowly slipped into sleep.

Well, I am happy to report that the knit hat kept my head nice and toasty all night long! I was snug as a bug in a rug! I still tossed and turned a bit but at least my head stayed warm! Yay!

Again, there was a light drizzle so decided to sit tight and wait it out a bit. While lying there I was considering the idea of raising my handlebars (rotate them so the shifter part is raised) as my hands were tingling both days. It is a relatively easy job requiring 3 Allen wrenches. And so soon as I had my mind set the rain stopped! I exited my den, grabbed some grub from the bear box and enjoyed a light lunch consisting of delicious banana bread made with love from Shons! Naturally, I washed that down with some hot coffee which also warmed me up nicely.

All fueled up I made quick work of the handle bar, shifter/brake and bar ends adjustment. This should get me more upright and put less pressure on the hands and back. As a side bonus the handle bar bag has more clearance making it easier to attach! A win-win!

I then made my way to the Marino Grill where I planned to park and write last night’s post. The rain held up for the hike and I found a really nice spot on the balcony overlooking the mountains. As I was writing a couple asked if they could join me (seating was getting full at this point in the day noon ish). Naturally I offered up my two remaining seats and had a wonderful conversation.

Terry and Rosie are a retired couple from KC here on vacation. They have been on the tour buses and will take a cruise from Anchorage to Vancouver starting Friday. Terry is/was a mechanical engineer so was naturally thrilled when he learned that I too was an engineer. Rosie was a CPA and, being a concerned parent, asked if I was investing into my 401k! She was quite pleased to hear that I take full advantage of this. She was even elated when I said I also invest in IRAs. She continued to go on about how kids these days don’t invest into their future… She sees it all the time.

Terry was proud that all 4 of their children finished college and paid for it by themselves. He said he told them he would not give them a free ride! He believed one needs to earn it in order to appreciate it. Well said Terry.

I don’t think Terry or Rosie quite understood what I meant when I said I was cycle touring from fairbanks to Denali and then to Anchorage. I think they thought I was part of some motorcycle tour group. I left it at that. They finished up their meals and we said our goodbyes.

The rain clouds came in and blocked the warm sunshine so I meandered into the indoor seating area. There I ordered the vegan wrap and a drink and parked near an outlet. I sat there getting refill after drink refill writing and people watching while the rain came down. I originally intended to do more hiking but chose instead to give my knees a much needed rest before tomorrow’s wet and grueling climb. I was also trying to plan my breakfast and lunch for Friday. I brought enough freeze dry stuff for everything but tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch. I really didn’t want another wrap (heavy and not calorie dense) so I decided to head back to the mercantile grocery to see what they might have.

Once at the mercantile I perused the shelves for the most calorie and protein dense items that I actually enjoy. Bingo, crunchy peanut butter and bagels! I’ll probably have one for dinner tonight and then for breakfast and lunch tomorrow. I also scored another 2 for 1 banana deal! I ate that with some peanut butter when my virtual Kona showed up to wish me luck tomorrow! Thanks Kona!

While working on this post some more cycle tourists rode up. This one was different though. It was a family complete with infant! The rain was pouring and they were scrambling to get into some dry clothes. They sounded German or maybe Dutch and I could get the situation seemed a bit tense so I figured now is not a good time to approach them.

I continued writing when eventually someone else commented on the baby seat and the bikes. I figured now was my chance to work my way into the conversation.

While I don’t know their names (language barrier) I do know they have been on the road for 3 weeks. They intend to venture into the park to do some backpack camping. Like Derrick, they currently do not have a final destination or completion date in mind. They are just going with the flow so to speak. This takes cycling touring to the next level in a major way. They quickly took out their stove to make some food for the child and then tended to themselves. This must be the ultimate test for a relationship. Having a baby must be tough enough but cycle touring with a baby? That’s insane! 😁

After speaking with couple and watching them franticly change into dry bulky sweaters I began to wonder… Do I have enough long sleeve clothes to keep me warm after a long wet day? I have 1 long sleeve tech tee and my smart wool. I have a few short sleeve shirts too which I regret taking as more long sleeved shirts would have served me better… I decided to venture into the mercantile to check out their clothing stock. They have a few light weight options in my size but the book store and baggage claim store area by the visitor center has more. So, I’ll swing by there on my way to igloo to pick something up. I think this gives me piece of mind… Especially when it’s 45F and rainy! I suppose I shouldn’t have talked bad about my sleeping bag as it may be a life saver in the end!

I’m gonna hang out at the mercantile likely till it closes at 10:30PM as at least here I can people watch or wander into the laundry facility or sit on a warm toilet seat! I’ll update this post of anything interesting happens. Otherwise, my last bit of wifi will be tomorrow morning. I won’t have any type of connection until I return to this area sometime Tuesday afternoon. Fortunately, I have a nice and toasty cabin lined up for Tuesday night! With my own shower even! Good bye warm water… Hell, goodbye potable water! Hello to the ‘Last Frontier!’

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Mom and Robin I know you are worried sick about me. I promise I’ll do my best to stay out of trouble and remain safe. I won’t take any unnecessary risks that put me in jeopardy. If a problem arises (injury or bike breaks) the bus can pick me up and haul me back to Riley Creek (where I am now). Just remember that I love you guys and I’ll be back home before you know it!

Shonu, I will try to reach out Friday morning via Android Hangouts as that uses wifi. I know you’ll be busy running but hopefully we can connect. Hugs and kisses and know that I love you dearly. 😘🐕